Day 27 - 30 Penzance to Helford Passage
Day 27 - Penzance to Porthleven. There was heavy cloud as I left Penzance and walked around the bay but it gradually cleared during the day. It was fairly flat to start with but there were some steep ups and downs in the afternoon. It is quite a pretty stretch, passing around Prussia Cove and along Praa Sands where there is a fabulous beach cafe. Nearly 15 miles today but I got to Porthleven at about 4pm although as it was a Sunday it was really busy. On chatting with a local there it was described to me as 'The Padstow of the South' partly as a result of its popularity and also because Rick Stein opened a restaurant in the village although that closed a long time ago. I stayed at a lovely BnB and was thoroughly spoiled by the wonderful host.
Day 28 - Porthleven to The Lizard. Back to warm sunshine again today for the walk down the western side of The Lizard peninsular. A few hills and beaches to start and I was followed a quarter of a mile or so behind by a group of 4 Welsh walkers for most of the morning. When I stopped for a drink at lunchtime we chatted and they told me they had nicknamed me 'Steadie Reddie' after my rucksack and because I seemed to go the same speed whether I was going up or down and whatever the terrain ! In the afternoon the views became consistently amazing and having seeen the incredible Kynanace Cove on a hot sunny afternoon like this I think it might just be the most beautiful spot in the whole of Cornwall ? The Lizard village also looked good in the sunshine but I do wonder what places like this would be like in the winter when the 4 or 5 shops are probably shut and its bleak and cold. I haven't had very many pasties but the one I ate at the end of today from Ann's Pasties was the best I have ever tasted ! The pub in the village was a great place to stay so a good day all round.
Day 29 - The Lizard to Porthallow. I wanted to get away early today because I had about 15 miles to cover. With the forecast of hot sun again I am having to start with both water bottles full which adds quite a bit of weight to my rucksack. I'm still tearing a page out of my guidebook each evening and doing everything I can to keep the weight down because it does make such a difference. I guess it might help if I could lose a stone or two ! Anyway, I didn't have breakfast today so I was on the path by 7.45am and had a good morning, covering about 10 miles by lunchtime even though there were quite a few tricky bits. It was all going well until a couple of miles past Coverack about mid-afternoon when suddenly I approached a foot bridge that was sealed off and there was a sign stating this section of the coast path was closed ! I then had a choice of clambering up some cliffs and across a few fields or gong back the way I had come. I think my best cliff clambering days are probably behind me so I retraced my steps and after about 3 miles came across the sign advising of the closure that I had completely missed earlier. I'm not particulary observant and in this case I had been lost in my thoughts but it cost a total detour of about 6 miles. In the end I arrived in Porthallow at 5.30pm having covered about 20 miles. Before finding my BnB I went to the beach where the halfway marker is and I felt much better for looking at that.
Day 30 - Porthallow to Helford Passage. Fortunately today was an easy day with only about 9 miles to cover up the coast and in along the Helford River. As ever with this walk, the vegetation was a problem, I suppose a wet Spring followed by a month of sunshine makes that inevitable. Some sections of the path, including most of todays stretch, are just so overgrown it means constantly looking down because underneath all of the greenery there are rocks and roots and its very easy to turn an ankle or worse. Looking on the brightside, I think my legs are developing an immunity to stinging nettles and brambles ! Yet again the sun was shining and there was a gentle breeze, it was just the perfect day. I don't normally stop for more than 10 or 15 minutes when I'm walking but at Gillan Creek I just sat there for almost an hour and a half. If there is a more relaxing place to be on a warm summers day then I've never found it. I took the ferry from Helford across to Helford Passage and had a fabulous meal in the Ferry Boat inn there. It was then a short stroll to the most upmarket accommodation I will be staying in on the whole walk, The Budock Vean hotel. I had managed to get some kind of very cheap special offer on a room but walking down the long driveway and looking at the immaculate grounds I was worried they might turn me away. I tried unsuccessfully to hide my sweat patches and smarten myself up and hoped there might be a back door or a tradesmans entrance I could use. Luckily enough the receptionst was absolutely amazing, greeted me like a long lost friend and seemed to take pity on me becasue she upgraded me to a suite ! Not at all sure I want to leave here..............